Around Portugal in 9 days

Day 1

Massive queues at Stanstead airport meant that i was pretty late getting to Porto. Thats what you get for flying a low cost airline I suppose. Fell asleep about 9 different times on a 2 hour flight. Waking up at 3am on the day of the flight to do work was not great preparation admittedly. Caught the light rail from Porto airport to Trinidade in the heart of the city. Saw lots of Portugese sitting out on the streets and lots of terrocotta roofs. Found a decent single room close by, watched highlights of the Brazilians qualifying for the world cup and drifted off to sleep. They love the Brazil team here almost more than the Portugal team. Thats like growing up in the Imray household and barracking for Hawthorn.

Day 2

Stored my luggage at the train station and proceeded to walk almost the entirity of Porto. First of all it took me an age to locate a camera shop. I hadn’t had time to grab something duty free at Stanstead so instead invested a measly 50 euro on a completely crap camera. I couldn’t be bothered walking any more. The first song I heard when entering a department store in Porto was ‘Who can it be now’ by Men at Work - wierd. Strolled around the world heritage listed riverside on the Douro river. Lots of clothes hanging on balconies, dogs and cats and beautiful tiled exteriors. Found a food market and sat down in one of the nearby parks to gorge on my first meal and watch the old portugese guys play backgammon while schoolkids ran around them. The big cheese over here is Havarti, on of my favourites, a big relief. Checked emails from work, 68 unread, delete. Also hired out a car for the next few weeks - a Daihatsu. Decided to drive to Parque de Geres in the north to check the forest. Got lost as soon as i hit the first big town. Driving on the wrong side of the road was also a bit of a learning experience. Rule of thumb for driving in Portugal - if the drivers around you are seemingly going twice the speed that you are, then you are most likely doing the right speed, you may even be slightly below. Portugese drivers invented the middle lane. Finally found my way out of Braga and up to the mountains. There were lots of pedestrian crossings in the midde of highways an lots of dogs chasing my car. Stuck in 2nd most of the way going up tight winding roads and dodging oncoming and overtaking Portugese. The scenery was amazing though. Beautiful lakes, farms, wineries and fresh air. After a funny conversation with some Portugese huddled in a bar helping me navigate to the parque campismo, I eventually made it just before dark as the owner was locking up. He took my drivers licence and off I went. I haven’t camped much apart from being forced at school, but it’s a beautiful thing.

Day 3

Great warm showers at the camping area - what a relief. Made my way through some almost deserted roads further into the hills. More great scenery. More winding roads with minimal space for 2 cars. After becoming all sceneried-out, I made my way back through Porto and headed towards Nazare on the road to Lisbon. Stopped off at the Bucaco forest and Luso - hot springs and ancient memorials. Hiked up a bit to get a view across the valley. Still guessing what the speed limits were as I then made my way to Coimbra - a pretty uni town in between Porto and Lisbon. Sat down for my first, and well deserved, pint of the local Super Bock. Went down tremendously well. Lovely squares and huge university here. People watched, walked around the shops and headed to the riversde for a big pizza - what else do you eat in Portugal. Drove to Nazare arriving just before nightfall, camping beneath the pine trees.

Day 4

Woke up early thinking i might have beat the crowds - not a chance. Busy beach this one. Found another cmpsite closer to the beach right next to a wind power farm. Made my ecological conscience feel better about driving around the whole of Portugal. Hired a bike and rode around foreshore, forest and up into the old town with cliff top views, a bull ring and Portugese women selling traditional wares. Collapsed in my tent to read the English newspaper i got earlier along with devouring a load of summer fruits I picked up at the ‘mercado’. Great nectarines, peaches and cherries over here. Fell into coma-like sleep as my neighbours blared death-metal. Other neighbouring campers had a TV which they watched all day - defeats the point doesn’t it. Thought i was a basic cmper, but their technologies made me appear like a complete pauper.

Day 5

Rode to the beach early for a swim. Another glorious day. Beach full of currents and dumping waves though. Chilled out for a couple of hours reading another paper and playing Sudoku, sadly i’m hooked. Made my way to Obidos another central town to stroll through the castle. Realise suddenly that the World Cup was starting so I dashed to the nearest cafe. Only about 20 people watching the game and at half time I was the only one left - crazy. Germany looking alright. Drove down to Lisbon after the game - argghhh lots of traffic. After several near misses found the camp site, right next to a major junction between two freeways - needless to say it wasn’t a very quiet campsite.

Day 6

Got ready for a big day in Lisbon. Got off the bus too early and stubbornly walked remainding distance into the city. 45 minutes later realised this was not a good idea in jeans and strong humidity. Found another big food market for more delectable fruit. Got offered hish-hash 7 times in the central square, right next to the police station by who I thought were good natured fake-sunglass sellers. Strolled around the Rossio and then found an Irish pubto watch the England v Paraguay game. Full of Poms - good first half, weak second half. Walked up to the Castle san de jorge overlooking the city - nice view. All the pub that had been recommended were shut. Found vegetarian restaurant and watched Sweden v Togo. Walked around trying to find my bus for ages - annoying day of walking.

Day 7

Drove to Sintra about 45 minutes from Lisbon. Wow. Amazing castles and palaces built on forested mountains. Walked to the tops and strolled through. Definite highlight of Portugal so far. Views across to surrounding areas and stunning interiors and architecture. The Peina Palais was built by Muslims and houses the King and Queen of the time, i think. Drove down to Cascais and Estoril on the coast on the way to Lisbon. Very popular beaches with the locals. Had a quick swim and then drove further south across the San Francsisco like bridge leading out of Lisbon and past the Rio like statue of jesus. Drove to Alfirma and Rio do parta beaches - huge ocean beaches - watched the surfers catching some quality waves. Drove to Cabo Espichel - cool cliff-top church with markets selling amazing sea shells (by the sea shore). Navigated eventually to Evora, another central town. World heritage listed, walled city.

Day 8

Woke up and explored the city a little. Osello church was the highlight - made from thousands of human skulls and bones. Watched the first half of the Australia v Japan match. Moods were lifted when I checked my email and realised I had got tickets to the world cup. Not one game - but two - Aus v Brazil and Aus v Croatia. Rang Mum to gloat and messaged most others. Still can’t believe we are going. Watched amazing come back by Australia (Tim Cahill is a hero) by myself in a deserted pizza restaurant, Super Bock beer in hand. Fi and I frantically trying to work out how to get to Germany by phone and email. By day’s end I had booked 200 quid one way tickets to get us back to London from Munich. Last email from Fi received as I log off - ‘can’t get the flight to Munich to start with.’ Shit. Karma finally got me, in my mental distress I filled up the car with gas instead of petrol leaving Evora on myway to Lagos and the Algarve. The car is kaput, splatters to a stop on the freeway. After 30 minutes the only person answering the Hertz 24 hour helpline for the whole of Portugal answers the phone. Very helpful pick-up driver and taxi man Antonio arrives 30 minutes later. Antonio drives me to Lisbon airport to pick up a replacement vehicle. Despite being told otherwise, car wasn’t organised at airport, but after only 30 minute or so more the pissed Hertz lady hands me the keys. At least I got to drive over Lisbons other bridge on the way back - Europes second longest - its big. Drove through the night to the Algarve, thankfully a camping ground was open just out of Lagos at midnight. Lucky.

Day 9

Had a great sleep for once. Drove around a few beaches on the coast to investigate where the girls and I can go when they get here on the 14th. Salema is a lovely fishing village 20 minutes from Lagos - looks like a winner. Had an awesome Indian fish curry for lunch. Wrote this update. Time for some more beaches and football. Oh and better get a present for Fi’s b’day tomorrow too. Ciao.