Entries from July 2006 ↓

It’s been another busy two days. I caught the bus to San Sebastian from Bilbao yesterday. Young bloke sat next to me and asked me something in Spanish and I gave my typical quizzical look back and told him I spoke English. To which he replied ‘oh right mate, well I’m from Warnambool’. Turns out he goes to Monash Uni and is over here to do an exchange in Sweden. So we chatted about all the typical travel things and then he told me there was a free Bob Dylan concert on the beach that night in San Seb. I didn’t even know! Given we both didn’t have a room in San Seb we decided to try and find something together. San Seb is difficult for accomodation at any time in the summer, let alone when Bob Dylan is playing a free concert. We had no luck finding anything so then came plan B - Leave the luggage at the internet cafe and stay awake all night to catch a bus to Pamplona at 5am for the running of the bulls. Obviously we were substantially affected by alchohol to devise this plan. It all sounded so good.

With a long night ahead of us we started drinking heavily early, adding to our demise early morning. The concert was amazing in that thousands of people piled onto the main surf beach. Bob Dylan is obviously old because his voice was buggered and we could hardly hear him, much like listening to one of his CD’s through a pillow. But it was an experience nonetheless. I met up with Candice’s boyfriend Chris on the beach, who I had never met, but recognised in the photos from Fi and Kate’s birthday. Ends up he is a St Bede’s boy who finished Year 12 the same year as me, so knew all the Beaumaris/Mentone regulars. Sam (mate from Bus) and I were by ourselves after Bob Dylan and some Spanish Hip Hop act played and were actually pretty good (better than Bob Dylan!), even if I didn’t know what they were talking about. By now it was about 2am and we spent the next 3 hours overseeing numerous bar closures, sitting in the gardens with our heads in our hands and eating crap take-away. Finally 5am arrived, we rejoiced and caught the bus to Pamplona.
The smell of urine in the streets as we departed from the bus in Pamplona set the tone of the city atmosphere. Here were thousands of filthy runners who hadn’t slept or showered for possibly many days and who were still drinking at 7am. Respect. We walked down to about 500m from the start of the bull run (Having had no sleep apart from 20 minutes on the bus, I had a great excuse not to run). We stood up on the barriers and I got a couple of movies and pictures of the festivities and angry bulls. The streets were full of runners and unsprisingly a few got hit, theres not much room there. A couple of people were stretchered away, but it wasn’t a total massacre. Apparently earlier in the week some guy was paralysed and a few people have had horns go through a few body parts although no-one has died since 1996 - comforting! From the streets, the bulls are guided into the bullring. We ran up to the stadium to get some seats and watched as one by one all the bulls came out into a crowded bull ring to be taunted by the runners. It’s not a nice spectactle, but great when the stupid tourists get smashed by the bulls and get their revenge.

By now it was about 9:30, I was destroyed and decided to bus it back to San Sebastian alone. I’ve thankfully found a dorm bed at the Pension Aussie for a few nights to relax, go to the beach and maybe even get up to the Pyrenees for the Tour de France. San Seb is a gorgeous town with a couple of beaches, great shops (although I can’t afford anything) and cool tapas bars. It’s just a pity it’s raining and 22 degrees! Found out there’s a Guns and Roses gig in Bilbao over the next few days which is very tempting for a laugh, will see how it goes. Just checked the website: Ladytron, Ben Harper, Cardigans, The Cult, Fun Lovin Criminals, Deftones, Pretenders, Tricky, Placebo. I could be tempted.

Day 1

Massive queues at Stanstead airport meant that i was pretty late getting to Porto. Thats what you get for flying a low cost airline I suppose. Fell asleep about 9 different times on a 2 hour flight. Waking up at 3am on the day of the flight to do work was not great preparation admittedly. Caught the light rail from Porto airport to Trinidade in the heart of the city. Saw lots of Portugese sitting out on the streets and lots of terrocotta roofs. Found a decent single room close by, watched highlights of the Brazilians qualifying for the world cup and drifted off to sleep. They love the Brazil team here almost more than the Portugal team. Thats like growing up in the Imray household and barracking for Hawthorn.

Day 2

Stored my luggage at the train station and proceeded to walk almost the entirity of Porto. First of all it took me an age to locate a camera shop. I hadn’t had time to grab something duty free at Stanstead so instead invested a measly 50 euro on a completely crap camera. I couldn’t be bothered walking any more. The first song I heard when entering a department store in Porto was ‘Who can it be now’ by Men at Work - wierd. Strolled around the world heritage listed riverside on the Douro river. Lots of clothes hanging on balconies, dogs and cats and beautiful tiled exteriors. Found a food market and sat down in one of the nearby parks to gorge on my first meal and watch the old portugese guys play backgammon while schoolkids ran around them. The big cheese over here is Havarti, on of my favourites, a big relief. Checked emails from work, 68 unread, delete. Also hired out a car for the next few weeks - a Daihatsu. Decided to drive to Parque de Geres in the north to check the forest. Got lost as soon as i hit the first big town. Driving on the wrong side of the road was also a bit of a learning experience. Rule of thumb for driving in Portugal - if the drivers around you are seemingly going twice the speed that you are, then you are most likely doing the right speed, you may even be slightly below. Portugese drivers invented the middle lane. Finally found my way out of Braga and up to the mountains. There were lots of pedestrian crossings in the midde of highways an lots of dogs chasing my car. Stuck in 2nd most of the way going up tight winding roads and dodging oncoming and overtaking Portugese. The scenery was amazing though. Beautiful lakes, farms, wineries and fresh air. After a funny conversation with some Portugese huddled in a bar helping me navigate to the parque campismo, I eventually made it just before dark as the owner was locking up. He took my drivers licence and off I went. I haven’t camped much apart from being forced at school, but it’s a beautiful thing.

Day 3

Great warm showers at the camping area - what a relief. Made my way through some almost deserted roads further into the hills. More great scenery. More winding roads with minimal space for 2 cars. After becoming all sceneried-out, I made my way back through Porto and headed towards Nazare on the road to Lisbon. Stopped off at the Bucaco forest and Luso - hot springs and ancient memorials. Hiked up a bit to get a view across the valley. Still guessing what the speed limits were as I then made my way to Coimbra - a pretty uni town in between Porto and Lisbon. Sat down for my first, and well deserved, pint of the local Super Bock. Went down tremendously well. Lovely squares and huge university here. People watched, walked around the shops and headed to the riversde for a big pizza - what else do you eat in Portugal. Drove to Nazare arriving just before nightfall, camping beneath the pine trees.

Day 4

Woke up early thinking i might have beat the crowds - not a chance. Busy beach this one. Found another cmpsite closer to the beach right next to a wind power farm. Made my ecological conscience feel better about driving around the whole of Portugal. Hired a bike and rode around foreshore, forest and up into the old town with cliff top views, a bull ring and Portugese women selling traditional wares. Collapsed in my tent to read the English newspaper i got earlier along with devouring a load of summer fruits I picked up at the ‘mercado’. Great nectarines, peaches and cherries over here. Fell into coma-like sleep as my neighbours blared death-metal. Other neighbouring campers had a TV which they watched all day - defeats the point doesn’t it. Thought i was a basic cmper, but their technologies made me appear like a complete pauper.

Day 5

Rode to the beach early for a swim. Another glorious day. Beach full of currents and dumping waves though. Chilled out for a couple of hours reading another paper and playing Sudoku, sadly i’m hooked. Made my way to Obidos another central town to stroll through the castle. Realise suddenly that the World Cup was starting so I dashed to the nearest cafe. Only about 20 people watching the game and at half time I was the only one left - crazy. Germany looking alright. Drove down to Lisbon after the game - argghhh lots of traffic. After several near misses found the camp site, right next to a major junction between two freeways - needless to say it wasn’t a very quiet campsite.

Day 6

Got ready for a big day in Lisbon. Got off the bus too early and stubbornly walked remainding distance into the city. 45 minutes later realised this was not a good idea in jeans and strong humidity. Found another big food market for more delectable fruit. Got offered hish-hash 7 times in the central square, right next to the police station by who I thought were good natured fake-sunglass sellers. Strolled around the Rossio and then found an Irish pubto watch the England v Paraguay game. Full of Poms - good first half, weak second half. Walked up to the Castle san de jorge overlooking the city - nice view. All the pub that had been recommended were shut. Found vegetarian restaurant and watched Sweden v Togo. Walked around trying to find my bus for ages - annoying day of walking.

Day 7

Drove to Sintra about 45 minutes from Lisbon. Wow. Amazing castles and palaces built on forested mountains. Walked to the tops and strolled through. Definite highlight of Portugal so far. Views across to surrounding areas and stunning interiors and architecture. The Peina Palais was built by Muslims and houses the King and Queen of the time, i think. Drove down to Cascais and Estoril on the coast on the way to Lisbon. Very popular beaches with the locals. Had a quick swim and then drove further south across the San Francsisco like bridge leading out of Lisbon and past the Rio like statue of jesus. Drove to Alfirma and Rio do parta beaches - huge ocean beaches - watched the surfers catching some quality waves. Drove to Cabo Espichel - cool cliff-top church with markets selling amazing sea shells (by the sea shore). Navigated eventually to Evora, another central town. World heritage listed, walled city.

Day 8

Woke up and explored the city a little. Osello church was the highlight - made from thousands of human skulls and bones. Watched the first half of the Australia v Japan match. Moods were lifted when I checked my email and realised I had got tickets to the world cup. Not one game - but two - Aus v Brazil and Aus v Croatia. Rang Mum to gloat and messaged most others. Still can’t believe we are going. Watched amazing come back by Australia (Tim Cahill is a hero) by myself in a deserted pizza restaurant, Super Bock beer in hand. Fi and I frantically trying to work out how to get to Germany by phone and email. By day’s end I had booked 200 quid one way tickets to get us back to London from Munich. Last email from Fi received as I log off - ‘can’t get the flight to Munich to start with.’ Shit. Karma finally got me, in my mental distress I filled up the car with gas instead of petrol leaving Evora on myway to Lagos and the Algarve. The car is kaput, splatters to a stop on the freeway. After 30 minutes the only person answering the Hertz 24 hour helpline for the whole of Portugal answers the phone. Very helpful pick-up driver and taxi man Antonio arrives 30 minutes later. Antonio drives me to Lisbon airport to pick up a replacement vehicle. Despite being told otherwise, car wasn’t organised at airport, but after only 30 minute or so more the pissed Hertz lady hands me the keys. At least I got to drive over Lisbons other bridge on the way back - Europes second longest - its big. Drove through the night to the Algarve, thankfully a camping ground was open just out of Lagos at midnight. Lucky.

Day 9

Had a great sleep for once. Drove around a few beaches on the coast to investigate where the girls and I can go when they get here on the 14th. Salema is a lovely fishing village 20 minutes from Lagos - looks like a winner. Had an awesome Indian fish curry for lunch. Wrote this update. Time for some more beaches and football. Oh and better get a present for Fi’s b’day tomorrow too. Ciao.

Check out these regular updates! I’m either a superstar, or getting bored - you know the answer. I’m in Bilbao at the moment, home of the very cool Guggenheim Museum built by Frank Gehry. I spent today taking 5,000 photos of the museum and wandering around the works. I can’t say the gallery itself is as good as anything like Tate Modern (I get sick of looking at paintings prior to 1980, i’m so cultured) but the architecture of the place is unbelievable, I just stood and looked at the place for a couple of hours. Massive titanium sheets cover the entire exterior combined with Federation square-esque glass.

I’ve been here a couple of days, well a day and a half really. Watched the end of the men’s Wimbledon final and then watched the Football in the comfort of my pension. Big goal by the French early, but I always thought the Italians were going to come back. I still think they are cheating bastards and I hate how they continually dive, but despite earlier comments I thought it was good to see them win. It will also be great to watch the whole team being sold to new clubs. Trezeguet, a Frenchman playing in the Italian league certainly did good for his career in Italy by missing the penalty (The bitterness hasn’t left me yet!).

I hadn’t planned to spend so much time in Bilbao, but I’ve felt worn out the last week and wanted to rest up in my own room in a more temperate and less busy city. I didn’t get up to much more in Seville - took a bus tour of the city which was not as great as it should have been for 15 euros. The girls and I also took in a Flamenco show just out of the city centre which was pretty fun. It was a proper show as opposed to some dodgy tourist affair. I said my goodbyes to Kris and Kel on the Friday morning and caught a 6 hour bus to Madrid (happy days).

Madrid didn’t really impress me at all, it’s a very big, dirty, monotonous row of buildings in my opinion, I was obviously missing something. Admittedly the galleries are probably the draw card and like I said I hate looking at thousands of circa 13th century paintings. I didn’t even bother going to any of the galleries. I checked out the El Retiro Gardens, where the Spanish like to stroll at night, but didn’t think it was that amazing either. I feel bad for not enjoying a European city of so much acclaim - actually I don’t care, but hope I haven’t offended any reader on here who is smitten with the place (your a wanker if you are!).

I did one day trip out of Madrid to Toledo, a town an hour or so South perched on a hill next to the River Tajo. Again, I wasn’t all that thrilled. Maybe the 40 degree weather in Madrid and Toledo and fact both places are as far away as you can be from the ocean was a factor in my dislike. Nonetheless I have photos, have been there and never have to return - the Australian travelling in Europe mantra. Later that night I watched the Football play-off between Germany and Portugal with a few guys from Exeter I’d met at the hostel. Typical whinging Poms, but we stayed out until 5am playing of all things table football - perhaps the crappest of all games invented (because I wasn’t very good at it).

I’m heading to San Sebastian tomorrow, a beautiful seaside city close to the French Border to stay for a few days - might do a couple of day trips to Biarritz (best surf beach just over the border) and Pamplona (possibly checking out the running of the bulls). I’d love to try and time a look at the Tour de France as it progresses through the Pyrenees as well, but i’m dreaming at this stage. Barcelona and Valencia beckons after that and then onto the Benicassim festival in Castellon on the 18th (Hope my spelling was OK this time? Why do Spanish keyboards have this ‘¿’ key for, i’m intrigued). Adios!

I´ve arrived back in Seville today after a few days in Granada/Salobrena. Granada was a real highlight, centered around the Alhambra a huge palace, castle and gardens set on top of the hill, with the Sierra Nevada mountains as a backdrop built by the Muslims some time well before the 80’s. Spent a day walking around and then went to the Mirador Nicholas on the adjoining hill to watch night fall on the Alhambra. There were plenty of fellow watchers and some locals playing some cruisy traditional music. Very romantic - by myself! Spent at least a few hours sitting on a stone wall zoning out and watching the stars (oh and writing a business plan).

Today I took a day trip to Salobrena, a picturesque beach straight south of Granada where the Granadians (?) take their holidays. The beach was nice, set amongst massive hills, but the highlight would have to be suffering near fatal burns to the back of the knees and well as, much as I hate to admit to my family, pretty much the whole of my body. I don´t have the patience for this sunscreen business, so I’m giving it up altogether (the sun that is). Tomorrow will bring a great tan, the next few years will bring wrinkles and skin cancer. Fantastic.

Tonight I made my way into Seville once more and reunited with Kristi and Kelly. We had a catch up over some very good tapas and typically potent Sangria after watching France win (I just pray Italy don’t win the final) which was devastating for the girls because they would’ve been in Portugal for the final. Tomorrow we are doing some sightseeing and then have booked a night at a Flamenco bar. On Friday i’m off to Madrid and possibly Toledo although i’m trying to save the days for Barcelona, so something will need to be cut. Running with the bulls in Pamplona is already off the agenda given the pricing of accomodation.

Parents - I will call soon I promise, sorry!

Congratulations to Nat Flatt on getting engaged. Im still shocked, but Fi and I are so happy for you! Cant wait to celebrate back in Melbourne, hopefully soon. Lindsay and Carol you must have had heart attacks - hope your recovering OK. Can you text Nats number to me on +447913 915547 so I can send wishes properly. Now the pressure is on Sass to get married, poor girl.